Japanese White Pine 1


This is the JWP I bought from Lee V nursery in November.

Picture taken 23rd February 2014:



Sowing the seeds

Once the seeds had been stratified in the fridge for around 6 weeks, on the 5th April 2014 I planted them in trays. Soil mix 60/40 (cat-litter/compost) with a layer of sharp sand 3cm deep.


I then used a ruler to dig lines into the sand.


I then placed the seeds in the tray 3cms apart


Finally I sprinkled sifted sand over the top to cover the seeds (a layer just as thick as the seeds themselves).

I have put them in full sun and cover them at night to protect against heavy rain. Am also watering them with Superthrive vitamin B root stimulant.

Repotted my new Japanese Maple

So on the 30th March 2014 I repotted this maple I purchase a few weeks prior. I waited for the buds to start swelling but BEFORE the leave burst. You need to wait for the trees to send its energy it has been storing in its roots over winter up into the trees and its buds before you can re-pot (including cutting roots). The tree will then push out leaves and the leaves will start photosynthesising and sending foot back down into the roots, for this to happen the roots need to supply the leaves with water. If you cut to many roots off without reducing the foliage the roots will struggle to support the leaves and they will wilt etc.. The soil I used is 2parts Akadama / 2part Cat Litter / 1part Pine Bark


The rootball was rock solid, I couldn’t even put a chopstick into it. Most of the thick roots where doing laps around the outside of the pot. I cut some of the long thick roots but I didn’t want to cut off too much as I was not touching the foliage at all.


IMG_1981  IMG_1984

I tied the tree down using this method, much more secure that using 2 bits or wire. Remember to attach the tail wire for the last tie off.


This finished product. I will add some sphagnum moss to the surface to hold moisture in and help develop more surface roots to thicken up the nebari:


The buds broke around the 24th April: